Tea, cake, whisky, cigarettes and cash

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Opposite me on the table are three cylindrical pyramids each over two feet high.

The first is made up of individually boxed slices of wedding cake.  The second of small, wrapped cartons of tea.  The third is made up of gifts we purchased following my wife’s own negotiations.  It’s a basket of cigarettes and whisky.

These are the gifts I will present tomorrow to my in laws as part of the “an hoi”.  I’ve referred to it in the past as the proposal but I’m aware that this isn’t a very direction translation.

A small amount of money is changing hands too.  Before you jump to conclusions about the foreigner being bled dry – at a recent extended family  an hoi, five times the amount I am giving was accepted.

My parents inlaw weren’t impressed.  There’s a fine line between saving face, doing the right thing and looking like you’re selling your daughter.  Too little isn’t good – too much is arguably worse.

It’s a sentiment that has been carried through to the purchase of the whisky and cigarettes.  I was told that, as a foreigner, I really ought to go for a foreign brands. It would be expected. If I’d been local then Vietnamese vodka would have sufficied.

But they told me to get only Johnny Walker Red, not Black.  The relatives from the countryside wouldn’t know the difference.

These gifts are supposed to be carried with me by young, single friends.  Virgins essentially.

Not only are my lot not virgins, they’re bringing their kids with them.  It’s as if they’re boasting not only their lack of celibacy but also their virility.

We also won’t be turning up in traditional cyclos and we won’t be wearing red ties.  It’ll be smart trousers and an open neck shirt for me.

I’m winging all this.  My wife tends to give me instructions on a need-to-know basis.  Essentially, however, the gifts get handed over.  We chat. We eat. We leave.

I should mention about the money that it’s marginally less than an amount given to us by my inlaws a couple of weeks back.

Later, at the wedding, people will bring cash envelopes.  Everyone pretty much pays for their meal – those who are a bit flush may pay a little extra.

At the lunchtime bash which my inlaws host, they will take the money.  In the evening – at the drinking and dancing do on the lakeside – we will take the cash.

It occurs to me that me, my wife, my parents and the diners all potentially finish pretty much even.

I reckon there’s a very good lesson about Vietnam in that conclusion.


Hanging on for the wedding, the honeymoon and the sea

There’s been a thought that’s been going through my head for some weeks now.

I just want to jump into the sea. I just want to jump into the sea.

Proper sea with waves fringed with big breezy beachy expanses you can walk on.

I can blame my utter lethargy on no end of reasons – setting up a new business, planning (and more stressfully paying) for a wedding but looking around, this is just an end-of-summer Hanoi thing. I can see it everywhere.

For those of us that didn’t get away it’s like we’ve sweated as much as we can.  Like lost minerals can no longer be topped up with electrolyte. Dehydration headaches are now only being lessened by paracetamol, not cured.

Each friend suffering similar tiredness is prescribing different cures.  A big night out.  A holiday. Leaving altogether.

I just want to jump into the sea.

A typically down-t0-earth Aussie friend in Hoi An says finding a place on the beach for our budget will be like “pushing shit up hill”, but we’ll find something.  It has to be on the beach. It’s all about the sea.

Today I looked on as my beautiful girl spoke to the wedding venue liaison (pic above) about what we want and what they could provide.  I took a walk around the place and thinking about the wedding suddenly left me all choked.  A happy, but tired, feeling.

Returning to the house I looked at the last of the savings and made mental calculations.  She won’t let me overspend on this wedding – but at the same time, it’s true what they say, it’s only once. It should be everything she deserves.

Business will settle.  Vietnam will turn 1,000. Our wedding will be beautiful. We will depart on our honeymoon.

Then, in Hoi An, we will hold hands and rush like newly wed lemmings into the South China Sea.


Her Mother’s. Come hell or high water

A while ago, when my wife rang from work to suggest we spend Saturday night visiting her parents, I stupidly, didn’t concur.

“Awwwww,” I said. “Not Saturday night.  I haven’t been out in weeks and I was thinking about going out for a drink with friends.”

That was all I said.  When I heard the response it provoked I backtracked furiously but it was too late.

The fall-out lasted for days.

At that point we weren’t married and although my parents’ plane tickets were booked and deposits were paid on reception venues, everything was to be cancelled.

The wedding was off.

Later, once I had worked really hard to make it all okay again, I talked about it with a fellow Englishman. He is also married to a Vietnamese woman.

I remember a character in Friends being told there are certain questions which a woman asks where answers are not only set in stone, the immediacy of the response is also important.

“Does this make me look fat?”

“No.”

No look up and down, no consideration, no pause for thought.

My friend told me that when your Vietnamese wife says she wants to visit her family, you reply immediately:

“I’ll start the bike”

On Sunday we were due a visit. Literally as we set off it started to spit with rain.  Within two minutes it was wet enough for us to pull over and put on macs.

By the time we had crossed Westlake it was getting heavy.  I took my life, and marriage in my hands and suggested that perhaps crossing town to visit her Mother during such extreme weather wasn’t worth the risk.

By this time lightning was flashing. Her parents live at the top of a mud road that’s horrific after rain.

The suggestion, however, that I was being deterred by the elements did not go down well.  A roadside heated debated lead to her saying I should return, if I really wanted to, and she would soldier on alone.

That was obviously a non-starter, so I suggested we could wait it out in a coffee shop. Even that delay took some convincing.

In the end the rain slowed and we made it to her family.  Two thirds of the way there the sun came out and we dispensed with our motorbike mac for two.

Maybe marriage is about picking your battles. This is one area, which I now know to be non-negotiable.

The strength, hierarchy and duties that bind a Vietnamese family are as solid as they are fascinating.

Truth be told I am happy and very proud to be part of her Vietnamese family.

I’m new at this game but hopefully I’m learning fast.


Happy eaters

Okay, I hope this doesn’t read as me being incredibly ungentlemanly.

The truth is weight, including your weight , is a perfectly reasonable topic of conversation in Vietnam for anyone.

A waitress recently told me that the lack of air con wasn’t the reason I was sweating. The reason, she said, was because I was too fat.I happily have no ego left about such things and she actually said it in such a sweet way that all I could do was agree.

They should offer this approach as therapy in the west. Batter you self image until it’s absolutely gone and then suddenly it doesn’t seem quite so important anymore.

But I digress.

However, before I get started, I should also point out that the topic for the post was urged by Loan herself.

Anyway, the truth is, since we met we have both piled on the weight. In 10 months Loan has added five kilos to her five foot one frame.

I’ve been too scared to go near a pair of scales but having lost a fairly decent amount of weight in Cameroon, the clothes I bought immediately after that trip, no longer fit.

The truth is, like so much in life, if we really cared – we’d do something about it. But, beyond making “oh dear” noises when trouser buttons won’t do up, we’ve been too busy doing the blissfully happy thing.

It has to be said that we’ve developed an awful habit of eating western food in an eastern style. Making every meal a buffet is fine when the food options are rice, noodles, greens and stir fried slivers of meat. Not so smart when the range of plates in the centre carry assorted fries, burritos, burgers etc.

But anyway, we managed to treat weight gain as Vietnamese people do – with equal amounts of fascination and flippancy without getting too down about it.

That is until this weekend. Both of us were casting around for clothes to wear for a friend’s wedding tomorrow. Loan, despite a more than extensive wardrobe, found there was little she could fit into.

For the first time Loan actually seemed almost upset about it.

Previously we tried the “diet starts Monday” approach only to giggle as we put it off week by week.

But, with three months till the wedding, now we’re getting tough.

Weekly weigh-ins. New scales bought. An excel document created on Google Docs with accompanying graph.

We even went geekishly as far as creating an “adjusted weight loss” section so we plots points and compare our progress. Every pound Loan loses counts double against mine – seeing as I have 10 kilos to lose and she has five.

I really am up against it. But considering that I am a) way bigger and fatter and b) twice her weight, that’s not unreasonable.

Oh and C) if we actually both reach our goals she will be skinny and I’ll still be a big fat lardo.

Anyway, with this newly found resolve we set the first weigh-in for Monday and did what you’d expect us to – we went out for breakfast.

After eating we nipped into the next door framing shop where the charming staff are old friends.

“You look so happy,” they told us.

“Shucks,” I thought. “Aren’t we the cutest.”

They looked again at Loan.

“And I think you have happy news.”

All of a sudden I guessed what they meant. If the Vietnamese are fascinated by weight that is nothing compared to their love of babies and the gossip surrounding – is she or isn’t she?

I made an amused but horrified face.

“But we’ve not even had the wedding yet.”

That of course only caused them to think that my denials were just me trying to keep everything respectable.

They both smiled at me conspiratorially. Both of them still looking so happy for us. As we drove away I swear they were almost tearful.

Just one more thing I love about Loan – we both left laughing.

Now weight issues are just referred to as “the baby”. Every tummy rumble is described as “a kick”

We’re happy. But there remains no happy news just yet.

But no more larding it till the week of the wedding. The diet starts Monday.

*Pic above is a frighteningly wide selection of food that we’ve eaten since meeting.  The obvious question is “where’s the pho?” but I promise you we’ve slurped our fair share but I’ve either haven’t had my camera with me at the time or, more likely, I didn’t want to be the stupid tay taking pictures of his food. Full Flickr food set here.


Reflections on reactions to an Asian bride

* Although the post below was written in about an hour this morning it’s fair to say it’s the culmination of a lot of thought on the subject. Finally I also asked Loan to read it. I wouldn’t have posted it if she hadn’t been comfortable with every word.

***

I’m just back from Thailand and like most people who visit it was hard not to be repulsed by the sight of older western men with young Asian girls.

Of course, this time my thoughts on the matter were influenced by the fact that I too was with an Asian woman.  There’s a mere six years between us but I still wondered how other people judged us.

Certainly I can think back to my very early days in Vietnam when I struggled with the whole concept of Western/Asian marriages.   It’s now hard for me to remember why. Undoubtedly I had my own prejudices. But how valid were they?

I think there remains a perception that the foreign bride is a make-do.  A catalogue order.  Or perhaps a better fit for men who’d like to continue to behave badly without having to apologise. I’ve heard the phrase “losers back home” applied to expats generally but especially those married to local women.

Getting married at 39 I suppose, being brutally honest, I could fit into the “making do” category.  Although it doesn’t feel like it.  When I decided to return to Vietnam there was no plan for marriage.  I always maintained you couldn’t plan for such eventualities.  At the time getting back to Hanoi was the only thought in my mind.

Is my “Asian bride” a better fit for me?  Well yes, of course she is.  I wouldn’t have married her otherwise.  But, that doesn’t mean that any Asian woman would have been.  I met someone and fell in love.  Their ethnicity has nothing to do with it.

We clicked. Hearts, flowers, the world seemed wonderful and we couldn’t stop smiling.

Beyond romance, we worked well together.  We are a good team. Isn’t that how it is supposed to feel when you meet “the one” regardless of where they are from?

“You’ll just know.”

I did.

About the time we first got together I read this article.  A man travelling in Asia with his Asian wife. He is really uptight about pointing out she is US born.

He writes:

There is a lot of subtext crammed into the nine-word question “Where in the Orient did you meet your wife?” even when you exclude the geographical relic of the term “the Orient.” As I explained that even though Aileen’s parents are from Taiwan, she has lived in New York City all her life and that, subtextually, I didn’t rescue her from a pimp in Shanghai, the light in his eyes dimmed. After I finished he sat for a moment, staring at the waves, and then looked up and said, “Huh. Well isn’t that nice.”

That writer, throughout the article seems desperate to distance himself from other Western and Asian couples.  I can empathise.  But can it be excused?

I’ve suffered similar paranoia.  My wife dresses fairly conservatively but on a hot day when we’ve gone for bun cha in the neighbourhood, the little shorts have come out.  In the past I’ve been very sensitive about that.  I didn’t want her to wear revealing clothes because I didn’t want to look like the kind of guy who would be attracted to a Vietnamese woman because of the way she dresses.

How do you tell a woman that she should cover up, even in her own country where she knows perfectly well what is acceptable?

Truth is you can’t.  And you don’t.  And you shouldn’t.

I apologised.

But the foreign wife is not often portrayed well. Especially the Asian wife.

The Vietnamese female as “me love you long time” prostitute remains a widespread cliché.  I’ve read backpacker blogs detailing the many many prostitutes in Hanoi.  It took me a while to realise that for the most part they were just seeing what they expected to.

Any young woman was a possibly a prostitute in their eyes.

It’s hard to feel any kind of kinship with the very old man with the very young Thai girl I saw on Bangkok’s Skytrain last week.  It didn’t look good even before you took into account a ludicrous toupee.

So here I could poke fun at him and list the many many ways in which we are different.  But I won’t.

Because perhaps we are all on a sliding scale of acceptability.

And it’s not just men.  Spend any time in Africa and you won’t have to look too far for older (often larger) white women, with very young, attractive African men friends. Sometimes more than one.

Is an older white woman with a young African man more acceptable?  What about if it’s an older white man with a young African bride? Ask yourself why any of these scenarios should be deemed more acceptable than any other.

It confuses the liberal-minded.  For: same-sex marriages.  For: mixed race marriages. But against marriages of differing backgrounds, age or means?

Marriages.  Good marriages.  They work on a whole host of levels.  In Cameroon I talked long into the night with my boss and he said what “whiteman” didn’t understand was their love came from being made to feel safe and looked after and not from simply looks alone.

And the more I think about it, the western concept of love at first sight (lust at first sight?) is flawed. Simply liking the look of a person is deemed reason enough to fall in love.  Yet taking into account all those other qualities it takes to build a relationship can  be deemed as suspiciously calculating.

Alongside our love I believe there is also a healthy amount of pragmatism in our relationship and that’s something I’m very happy about.

And I can write of the many ways that a relationship with an Asian woman is different except that – any relationship with any woman is different.

I didn’t marry a region, a country or a city.  I married a person.

If other people want to jump to conclusions about why I did that then it’s best just to let them.

Me? I’ve got to be the opposite of the journalist quoted above. I have to realise that I don’t have to explain or justify anything.

I never expected to marry a local woman.

But then again – I also never expected to be this happy.


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