The Hanoian attitude to motorbikes is an odd one.

For the most part, despite these being the most necessary of possessions, there appears to be little pride attached to them.

Even for 17-year-olds on borrowed bikes, doing wheelies with two helmetless mates riding pillion, the ego is in the moves not the wheels.

Reluctantly lend your keys to someone and there are no “don’t worry” promises offered in return.

Park a bike and it’ll be manhandled in line. Even pushed between two other bikes if space is short. Mirrors, useless at the best of times here, are knocked out of their alignment. Paintwork is unapologetically scratched.

As much as I can repeat the mantra of “that’s just how it is here”, people slouching on *my* bike – a common occurrence – never fails to irritate.

Okay, so the kid who parks the bike – if he has nowhere to sit – then it’s okay if he sits on a bike. I suppose.

But, if I can see him from my table and…hang on, now he’s got his dirty feet on my seat…

Try as I might to stay calm, that really bugs.

In one balcony bar recently, half a dozen of the parker’s mates, who looked like trouble to my middle aged eyes, dropped by and started making themselves comfortable.

One was literally lying completely horizontal on my bike.

“Do they work here?” I enquired from of the waitress as we overlooked the parking area.

“No,” she said.

My wife looked embarrassed as the waitress shouted from the bar requesting that they move.

Recently, leaving a local shop, a baby was sat on my bike, propped up by a grandparent.

A motorbike as high seat. This child was being fed. Baby slop spattered over the frame.

It should irritate me less. I used to laugh at this.

What’s my problem?

Property is less personal here. Space too. A little consideration so I can enjoy personal peace and quiet?

It isn’t going to happen.

It’s just the way it is.

Like I’ve said before it’s starting to feel more and more like the end of the film.</p> <p>The old <a href=” alt=”" />KOTO at 61 Van Mieu is no more.  The new KOTO at 59 Van Mieu, the focus of our work for over the past two years is days away from opening.

Last week I wandered around the old place.  Anything of any value had been removed.  Only the shell remained.  The memories I have of that place are tremendous.  Multiplay that by 200 KOTO trainess, 100 or so more staff and volunteers and thousands of customers.  That place has touched so many lives.

Then I looked around the new KOTO.  It was only just starting to look like a restaurant.  There wasn’t that much to see but day by day it’s taking shape.  You can already see that the roof terrace is going to be a big favourite.  Overlooking the Temple of Literature I can see it being perfect for private parties.

Elsewhere a bar area gives KOTO a night feel that it’s previous version didn’t have.  The new place will still have the day time coffee bar friendliness with a little evening sophistication thrown in.

In the end though it wasn’t ready for the KOTO bike ride.  That was yesterday.  The date of the after ride party will be scheduled as soon as the restaurant is ready.

As ever I nearly bust a gut over organising the bike ride but it was a great day.  Going back over the photos and uploading them I noticed all the smiles of the entrants.  This year we had double the turn out for last year and somehow it went off like clockwork.  Largely thanks to the excellence of my colleagues particularly the Miss Oanh and Mr Huy who were just awesome once more.

I’m very happy it went to well.  I have to admit I am even happier that next year’s event will have someone else organising it.  I am tempted though to come back to Vietnam to take part as a punter.  We’ll see.

All the bike ride pics are here. In addition, bloggers here and here are already writing it up and saying nice things.  Thank you good people.

Next week is already shaping up.  My final two days work should see me doing reports for my employer and for VSO but there’s no time.  I’ve promised a newsletter and some website news updates before I go.  Then over my Christmas break I’ll forward my final KOTO reports and suggestions back to Vietnam from the UK.

On Tuesday KOTO is doing me proud with a leaving do – fruit and pop with the trainees then beers and food with the staff.  It’s only two more days and yet I still can’t imagine saying goodbye.

In the meantime, today was my first day in weeks when I had no responsibility and nothing to worry about.  I’ve strolled very contendly around a curiously still-warm Hanoi.

My third and final bike ride done.  The new KOTO restaurant all but completed  There’s only a couple of pages left in this final chapter.

* Pics are all from the 5th annual KOTO bike ride – more here.