Because not all Hanoi taxis are crooked
Posted: May 28, 2012 Filed under: Hanoi, Pics, transport, travel | Tags: hanoi taxis, taxis Leave a comment »Heard the one about the Hanoi taxi driver and the Interpol agents?
Best story of last year I reckon, the world’s finest law enforcers being no match for your lowly Hanoi taxi driver does have a certain black humour about it.
But anyway, just wanted to say that on Saturday, having attended the Big Dance (a last duty for my now former employers the British Council), I returned back home and realised I had left my camera in the Hanoi Taxi (that’s the brand name) cab. I called, they found it, and eventually dropped it off at The Cart - with politeness and smiles along the way.
Anyway, I use them all the time, seeing as they have something of a taxi rank at the Sheraton. The BC also has an account. I’ve never had any problems at all. Totally recommended.
Pics from the Big Dance, from returned camera.
On Vietnam, cams and uninstalling Instagram.
Posted: May 2, 2012 Filed under: Hanoi, Pics, Reflections | Tags: instagram, photography, smartphones, vietnam 2 Comments »It’s been a while since a photo taken with an “proper” camera appeared on this blog, which is a shame really because looking back I’m quite proud of a few of them.
But since I bought a smart phone with a half decent in-built cam I’ve felt less like actually lugging anything else around with me. There’s more to it than that though. Living in Hanoi there’s only so many five-on-a-bike, conical hatted ladies and pho stand pics you can take.
I began to equate carrying a camera, not so much with being a tourist but very definitely being an outsider. That’s not to say that I’m kidding myself that I’m still anything but, however it’s not a fact I want to hammer home.
I also got a little tired of that expat hey we’re all djs, journalists, filmmakers, photographers and multimedia artistes thing. I’m not a photographer and there are too many good ones (and many many bad ones I’d rather not be bracketed with) for me to claim otherwise.
So that leaves me with the smart phone cam which would be all well and good except Instagram. Back when it was an Apple thing, (I’m an Android man but I prefer an Apple laptop – it’s complicated), I inwardly mocked it as hipster crap. But, keen to have a play, I downloaded when it became available and now I’m irritatingly hooked.
And now I dislike it more than ever.
I dislike the retro filters that can be applied to everything. I hate the whole concept of everything looking like your mum and dad’s polaroids. Why must everything be retro? Even in place where 1977, as one filter is called, wasn’t so much fun.
There’s something very wrong with capturing memories with a computer generated rosy glow and a designed-in fade. This process used to happen in our heads, then it happened on photographic paper – now we’re cynical enough to digitise it.
Beyond that I hate the all consuming me-tooness of it that was irritating when it was just Apple but now with Android it’s hit a please-God-make-it-stop critical mass.
But I know that when I’m thinking enough with the Instagram, I’m talking to myself as much as everyone else.
Without Instagram, my phone pics have an even more obvious lack of sharpness and their washed out colours appear even more bland. It’s like when I used to make mixtapes on a deck with an ultra-fast setting. Afterwards songs played at natural speed seemed lifeless and turgid.
So far though I haven’t been able to stop using Instagram. I dabbled. I was hooked.
But consider this as notice, I’m going cold turkey.
The pic above of national holiday everyone’s-gone-to-country Hanoi is very definitely my last.
I’m uninstalling the app.
The Trouble with Travel Writing
Posted: April 28, 2012 Filed under: Blogs and Bloggers, change, Hanoi, Reflections, travel | Tags: Hanoi, travel, travel writing, vietnam 1 Comment »
I don’t think that travel writers visiting where you live and airing an opinion is ever a particularly comfortable experience.
Now of course, it’s not a case of someone arriving followed by a wait while they return home and file copy. The writer, whether pro or wannabe, is likely to be sharing their views from the second they hit WIFI. In Vietnam there’s a lot of WIFI.
What it means is that without looking especially hard, you can come across reams and reams of live content generated about where you live. In the end very little of it impresses. Yes it can be mean-spirited to pick holes, but frequently it’s all too easy and that goes for the writers from the quality press just as as much as it does for ambitious young bloggers.
Travel bloggers dreaming of being able to fund an endless holiday, need to be read. In order to be read, even putting aside SEO-thinking, they have to be of use. So instead of actually writing about their travels they write tips for future backpackers. However with limited time in town and limited research resources they Google and cannibalise what they find.
Even their travel writing heroes are not great explorers but great blaggers. Travelling for years fuelled by travel tips churned out and ready to be recycled by the next “nomad”. Sure, it’s not about the destination, it’s the journey. But increasingly it’s length of journey that’s all important.
For the foodies it means visiting that same bun cha restaurant. While those not wanting to be quite so same same, head for the snake village. Another cliche but it’s something to share on YouTube and if it’s good enough for the telly guys… (please, don’t do it).
Meanwhile at the higher end of the market, “proper” journalists descend on Hanoi as the first stop on their tour. All good except they use the same Google as the rest of us. Worse still with flights and rooms arranged by the same PR company the writers ends up staying in the same places and churning out information from the same fact sheets. Google “Charlie Chaplin” AND “Sofitel Metropole” and you get 11,900 results.
After the Metropole there’s the three other hotels that crop up time and time again in Hoi An, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. One charges well over $1,000 a night. Not the kind of freebie you’re going to slag off in print – then again, with the PRs having primed the resort management it’s not like they’re going to get anything but preferential treatment anyway.
And when did broadsheet travel writing becoming almost exclusively about luxury?
But perhaps the days of The Great Railway Bizarre are over anyway. It’s not just that everyone’s seen it all already on TV and YouTube but travel writing as Paul Theroux said is about “Jumping to conclusions and generalising. Inventing and recreating places from vagrant glimpses.”
In modern times I think we’re less comfortable generalising about people and we’re less comfortable reading those who still do.
That’s probably no bad thing.
I’m not sure where it goes from here though. Are travel tips and Instagrammed photos of sun sets all we have left?
This is summer in Hanoi
Posted: April 24, 2012 Filed under: Hanoi, Reflections, The Cart, weather | Tags: Hanoi, heat, hot, summer, weather 2 Comments »I can end the day with a cold shower but I can’t start with one.
So, this morning, having slept with the air con on most of night, I turned on the heater and enjoyed the warm water. Except that half way through the lights went out – and with it went the fan and the air con.
We’d just bought a rechargeable fan for such an eventuality but it wasn’t worth bothering with this morning. Instead I dried off in unhindered heat and dashed from the house sweating. I cooled off a little on the motorbike trip to work and surprised myself when I got there to find my rush had meant me arriving before quarter past eight.
The power cut was well timed. Today feels like the first proper day of summer. The first day that the weather has genuinely pushed past the upper twenties and solidly into the thirties. As I type this at twenty past six, the thermometer says it’s still 32 degrees.
I’ve become increasingly afraid of the Hanoi summer but I’m not sure why. When I first lived here it didn’t stop me doing anything. In fact life was so fast moving I hardly noticed either its arrival or passing until temperatures hit extremes. But each year I’ve talked myself up about the looming Hanoi summer and the need to escape it.
But I’ve enjoyed today. That dash to work, the blue sky – I even surprised myself by going out in the midday heat for lunch (okay so I went to The Cart instead of getting them to deliver – my wife requires a good excuse before she’ll accept me eating anywhere else). My usual latte was replaced an iced espresso, I called in again on Loan on the way home and had a particularly girly iced jasmine tea with honey and ginger.
Last weekend we packed away all our winter clothes – first leaving them to dry on the roof as they still felt damp. Summer shirts were put in the wash to rid them of the mildewy layer they’d acquired over the summer. My wardrobe looks sparse now.
Already I’m fretting that I need to do some exercise before the heat leaves me unable to put one foot in front of the other without sweating profusely.
This is summer in Hanoi.








