So full I couldn’t read another thing
Posted: May 16, 2012 Filed under: Blogs and Bloggers, expats, Food and drink, Reflections | Tags: blogging, food, food blogs Leave a comment »Yesterday, in its own automated way, @vietnamblogs churned out six newly written blogs posts on Vietnamese street food.(1,2,3,4,5,6)
That was without the assistance of one or two Vietnam-based bloggers who write exclusively on the subject. One of the articles came from The Word and highlighted its recent Hanoi poll.
When it asked what we like best about Vietnam, the survey said:
…a huge 98.8% of the votes, no doubt motivated by an absent lunch and a rumbling stomach, went to Hanoi’s street food…
It followed a similar poll in Ho Chi Minh City where the results were remarkably similar with streetfood getting 94% of the vote.
I do recall a tweet sometime ago (from @thecomicalhat perhaps) referring to expats who “say they love street food but really really only eat bun cha a couple of times a year” – or something similar.
Certainly, it’s easy to be a cynical when your average pho store isn’t exactly knee deep in foreigners.
So what’s the truth, is eating street food as popular as blogging about it and taking instagram pics? Just how trendy is VN food right now? Is it still on an upswing or have the hardcore foodies moved on?
Update: It occurs to me that the reason eating, photographing and blogging Vietnamese streetfood is so popular is that it’s a fad, within a fad, within a fad – and you can add another layer to that if you consider Vietnam to be a newly trendy place to visit.
Full disclosure:
- I enjoy street food whenever I have it and yet probably only do eat it half a dozen times a year.
- I voted “people”.
Living with The Cart – An Update
Posted: April 15, 2012 Filed under: Food and drink, Hanoi, ho tay, nghi tam, tay ho, The Cart, Westlake, work | Tags: cafe, Hanoi, ho tay, nghi tam, tay ho, the cart, westlake, work 3 Comments »Follows this post.
Back when I used to work at KOTO, they fed me most days – it was part of the deal, there never was a more spoiled VSO volunteer than me.
Most of the time that meant delivery to the old Thuy Khue training centre but occasionally I’d be at the restaurant so I’d find a table and order. I never enjoyed it. I always spent my time wondering how long it’d been since table 12 ordered, or was table 5 not enjoying their dish and that glass of wine table 3 received – I thought they’d ask for a beer etc etc.
Normally everyone was just fine and staff were far more capable of keeping tabs on it all than I was. All I added was an on-edge layer of nervousness.
Substitute KOTO in 2004 – 2007 for The Cart 2009 – now and up till recently I was still a little jumpy. It’s intensified as The Cart Nghi Tam, just two minutes from my house, sometimes feels like an overspill of my living room. After all it’s often where I go just to spend time with my hardworking wife.
But what’s great is just how the place now feels like it’s matured. Staff recruited in the wake of opening the branch are proving to be stars. None more so than Hung the former Blue Dragon kid manning the front desk and Doan our baker.
Hung (seen here modelling the KeepCup) is a star, an honest as the day is long and with deceptively good English. I wonder sometimes – did he get that? – he did. Doan, our baker, arrived having worked overseas – the fresh bread he makes has taken the place to a new level.
We’d always envisaged the cafe as a Nghi Tam community place. Too small for a hangout but maybe somewhere to meet up. We’re making new friends as a result of being open – good to see some of our customers doing the same. They too look more comfortable there and we now know a little more about each other. We’ve become part of each other’s routine.
Loan continues to work seven days a week but gratifyingly not quite as many hours. Sister Trang is an irreplaceable member of staff and, as she’s holding down two jobs, we keep trying to lure her full time but her other post is public sector and in Vietnam that’s still considered the most solid career going.
My wife has a very Vietnamese anti-marketing stance. Businesses build. Promotion is expensive. It’s actually suited us and while it may be rooted in a traditional pho-stand sensibility it goes well with modern social media thinking. We’ve tried to avoid any hyperbole on our website. We’ll say it’s fresh – you can decide if you think it’s tasty. Word of mouth has so far promoted a very sustainable growth. From the very outset there’s been a plan to flyer all the local NGOs but, ultimately, we haven’t needed to.
Staff capacity is building at pretty much the same rate as demand and that’s fantastic.
Oh and The Cart Au Trieu has had a little love too. At first the new place stole a few of its customers but now they’re both performing consistently. Although we also know that summer is coming and they’re long and hot and frequently not quite so rewarding. It’s all about spring and autumn in expat land.
Finally it was my 41st birthday yesterday (I was very moved when the flowers below arrived from colleagues) – which is always a good time to reflect. Post Tet holiday, which seems like years ago now, has been a rather stressful period – for a number of reasons I’ll go into another time. But it feels like we’re getting a grip on it all.
Investing our thought and time in The Cart will be an ongoing process – but with it settling nicely, happily it’s one less thing to worry about.
Dinner and drinks with the inlaws
Posted: April 1, 2012 Filed under: family, Food and drink, Hanoi | Tags: beer, bia, drink, family, food, whisky, wine 1 Comment »Lobsters, oysters and five star hotels
Posted: March 3, 2012 Filed under: expats, Food and drink, Hanoi, ho tay, nghi tam, tay ho, The Cart | Tags: food, Hanoi, hotels, lobsters, oysters, sheraton 2 Comments »The pic is of the oysters at yesterday’s Lobster Buffet at the Sheraton Hotel.
Despite living literally in the shadows of the place we probably only actually visit it a couple of times a year – in particular for this buffet which is chronically expensive by local standards and internationally pretty cheap. Eat as much as you like lobster, oysters etc for $50 a head.
That’s thirty quid each. That’s not much more than a decent British pub lunch.
Eating there is odd, despite the incredible food, it has all the atmosphere of a work canteen. While eating I become very aware that for us, paying for our own food, we’re very keen to stomach our money’s worth of oysters. But for those passing through on business it’s all expenses. Watching them pick at the food, at that price, it seems an unforgivable waste.
I soon become a little embarrassed at the number of return trips to the buffet we make as compared to them.
Nearby, in the smoking section, there is always a table of loud whiskey-faced businessmen drinking copious amounts when it’s $5 for just a small glass of beer.
Despite the fact that our visits are rare these big five star hotels seems to be an unavoidable part of expat living. My home city in the UK has a Hilton but I’ve never been there and I don’t recall friends ever mentioning visits either.
But here if you work for an NGO or Embassy then these hotels are the go-to places for events. An NGO-working friend recently told me of his despair at his employer hosting an event in a five star hotel despite requests to cut costs. But that’s how it is.
Recently we received a catering order at The Cart for lunchtime sandwiches for an NGO. Reading from the bottom the email started with two colleagues musing – “We can’t just ask the Sofitel to provide lunch like we used to – it doesn’t look right any more – does anyone know somewhere that’s cheap?”
The expat community also includes those who manage and market the hotels. Sooner or later, whether you want to or not you’re liable to get on their email list.
Yesterday when we left the Sheraton, a loud, extravagant wedding was taking place. The Aston Martin pictured below was in the car park. You couldn’t help but think it wasn’t just a wedding car, it was a wedding present.
The perfect lunch
Posted: January 5, 2012 Filed under: Food and drink, football | Tags: food, football, Hanoi, newcastle united, the cart Leave a comment »Football from here.
Food (mulligatawny soup and meat and potato pie) from The Cart (obviously).








