Because not all Hanoi taxis are crooked

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Heard the one about the Hanoi taxi driver and the Interpol agents?

Best story of last year I reckon, the world’s finest law enforcers being no match for your lowly Hanoi taxi driver does have a certain black humour about it.

But anyway, just wanted to say that on Saturday, having attended the Big Dance (a last duty for my now former employers the British Council), I returned back home and realised I had left my camera in the Hanoi Taxi (that’s the brand name) cab.  I called, they found it, and eventually dropped it off at The Cart - with politeness and smiles along the way.

Anyway, I use them all the time, seeing as they have something of a taxi rank at the Sheraton.  The BC also has an account.  I’ve never had any problems at all.  Totally recommended.

Pics from the Big Dance, from returned camera.

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Two sides to every story and multiple agendas

I wanted to share a couple of recent news articles I thought were excellent in terms of giving a really balanced picture of what is happening in Vietnam.

First off this piece from (Twitter’s very own) Mike Ives.  Government’s seizing land is always going to be an emotive subject but I’ve bemoaned, for some time now, a lack of explanation from the state.  That’s the problem with a state controlled media, sometimes it’s easier to limit coverage than to actually explain. I can’t begin to imagine how much effort it must have taken to bring absolute balance to this piece.

Along the same lines this fantastic piece by Robert Kaplan in The Atlantic offers an incredibly exhaustive overview of modern Vietnam and its diplomatic  role in the region.  Reading both pieces side by side it feels like the balancing act required to run this country is almost impossible to comprehend.

What worked best about both is that they were written with obviously an incredible amount of research and valued facts rather than just  targetting the usual bogeymen.  In contrast, a much briefer example perhaps, but the crow-barred in reference to communist Vietnam in this report of a horrific accident just seemed odd and it’s hard to know what it’s suggesting.

Balance doesn’t make one side right or the other side wrong.  Balance doesn’t make the worst excesses forgivable. But balance does give us the chance to make our own minds up. Just as there two sides to every story, there are also various agendas.


The countdown to whatever comes next

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This Wednesday will be my last day working for the British Council here in Hanoi.

There’s no single reason why I decided to leave, I’ve spoken to a few people recently, both within the BC and  others in similar positions to my own (I was head of marketing and communications), and everyone seems to be going through a process of transition.  The old ways don’t work any more but the new ways need more in-house resources, not to mention a step change in attitudes.

Rather naively when I joined I didn’t really understand the terminology when it came to employment.  Foreign colleagues were “UK appointments” or “local appointments”. I was neither, I was Vietnamese. Sometime in the future I’ll write about what it was like to be Vietnamese in this context.  For now it’s enough to say that workload and aggravation will always be judged against remuneration and increasingly one didn’t compensate enough for the other.

In the end I was there a little under a year and a half.  My boss was kind enough to provide a reference and his thoroughness meant he listed many achievements that even I had forgotten.  It’s been a pleasure to work with a great marcomms department overseeing a digital head and communications manager.  While there’s been treacle swimming elements, last week on the way back from an external meeting we started reminiscing about what we’d inherited as a department and all the change that had been implemented.  I think that step change has been made.

In the end, what I enjoyed most about the job was how so much of the best bits reminded me of old days working in newspapers.  A modern marcomms department has to create so much content.  Words, pictures and movies – while at the same time keeping an eye on assorted platforms – Twitter, Facebook, Flickr, YouTube, Vimeo, Ning and even Tumblrs have been used this year.  We had to do everything in two languages.

So while at one end it was supposed to be strategy and big picture stuff, I was also constantly writing, editing, captioning, uploading etc.

In the end though it’s been great to go out on a high.  One of the additional tasks I picked up was to oversee our London 2012 support – both Olympic and Paralympic. Among the many events and initiatives have been the Living Clock.  My idea, fleshed out by the “UK Family” Comms group, it’s since been adopted across the East Asia region – inspiring such wonderful efforts as this from British Council Japan.

As I speak we’re 68 days to go and it’s building beautifully and receiving compliments from regional and head office.  It’s already on Flickr, Tumblr and Facebook and on Friday we even talked of turning it into a small book to leave with prospective clients. This “100 days in 2012” snapshot would tell you more about the sheer volume and breadth of our work than any number of more traditional corporate brochures.

As for the job itself, it was the best job ever and (sometimes) the worst(ish) - frequently on the same day.  Incredible wider team though – as I have written about before. I have also come away so impressed by just how hard everyone works and, even to a cynic like me, what an inspiring organisation the British Council is.

What next? Well I have to admit that when I handed in my notice, knowing that it’d be three months till I was out the door, I had expected to have something lined up by now.

I was recently approached by a headhunter who wanted to talk about a great job and I was suitably enthusiastic.  An initial interview and then it’s all gone quiet.  Likewise I’ve applied for other posts and yet my email is as yet unbothered by offers of jobs or even any additional interviews.  Ever since I first completed my first VSO post in 2007 I have been sporadically applying for NGO posts with only one six-month interim post to show for it.  With 20 years media/comms/ PR experience behind me and no interest, it’s easy to feel like it’s a closed shop.

The position the headhunter talked about was actually in Ho Chi Minh City – moving within Vietnam or within the region are not being ruled out yet.

But, in the meantime, I’ll be keeping myself busy. There are one or two little consultancy jobs lined up which are great.  I’ll also be assisting The Cart on a daily basis.  I’m also going to try and finally get some weight off too by doing a little more exercising – 10 kilos by the end of summer is the plan.

Since resigning, at times, thoughts of the future have felt rather exhilarating – I have to say right now that’s wavering towards worrying.  But last year I spent half my wage on healthcare and travel back to the UK – whatever I end up doing here it’s going to have to be a little more sustainable.

Finally apologies if posts recently have waivered between grumpy and somewhat obscure.  The situation has its own pressures and on top of that there were a lot of things I didn’t really want to write about until now. I hope that makes sense.

Sorry – that all got rather long winded. Pic is the view from work. I shall miss that also.


So full I couldn’t read another thing

Yesterday, in its own automated way, @vietnamblogs churned out six newly written blogs posts on Vietnamese street food.(1,2,3,4,5,6)

That was without the assistance of one or two Vietnam-based bloggers who write exclusively on the subject.  One of the articles came from The Word and highlighted its recent Hanoi poll.

When it asked what we like best about Vietnam, the survey said:

…a huge 98.8% of the votes, no doubt motivated by an absent lunch and a rumbling stomach, went to Hanoi’s street food…

It followed a similar poll in Ho Chi Minh City where the results were remarkably similar with streetfood getting 94% of the vote.

I do recall a tweet sometime ago (from @thecomicalhat perhaps) referring to expats who  “say they love street food but really really only eat bun cha a couple of times a year” – or something similar.

Certainly, it’s easy to be a cynical when your average pho store isn’t exactly knee deep in foreigners.

So what’s the truth, is eating street food as popular as blogging about it and taking instagram pics?  Just how trendy is VN food right now?  Is it still on an upswing or have the hardcore foodies moved on?

Update: It occurs to me that the reason eating, photographing and blogging Vietnamese streetfood is so popular is that it’s a fad, within a fad, within a fad – and you can add another layer to that if you consider Vietnam to be a newly trendy place to visit.

Full disclosure:

  • I enjoy street food whenever I have it and yet probably only do eat it half a dozen times a year.
  • I voted “people”.

On Vietnam, cams and uninstalling Instagram.

Hanoi on a national holday

It’s been a while since a photo taken with an “proper” camera appeared on this blog, which is a shame really because looking back I’m quite proud of a few of them.

But since I bought a smart phone with a half decent in-built cam I’ve felt less like actually lugging anything else around with me.  There’s more to it than that though.  Living in Hanoi there’s only so many five-on-a-bike, conical hatted ladies and pho stand pics you can take.

I began to equate carrying a camera, not so much with being a tourist but very definitely being an outsider.  That’s not to say that I’m kidding myself that I’m still anything but, however it’s not a fact I want to hammer home.

I also got a little tired of that expat hey we’re all djs, journalists, filmmakers, photographers and multimedia artistes thing.  I’m not a photographer and there are too many good ones (and many many bad ones I’d rather not be bracketed with) for me to claim otherwise.

So that leaves me with the smart phone cam which would be all well and good except Instagram. Back when it was an Apple thing, (I’m an Android man but I prefer an Apple laptop – it’s complicated), I inwardly mocked it as hipster crap.  But, keen to have a play, I downloaded when it became available and now I’m irritatingly hooked.

And now I dislike it more than ever.

I dislike the retro filters that can be applied to everything.  I hate the whole concept of everything looking like your mum and dad’s polaroids. Why must everything be retro?  Even in place where 1977, as one filter is called, wasn’t so much fun.

There’s something very wrong with capturing memories with a computer generated rosy glow and a designed-in fade.  This process used to happen in our heads,  then it happened on photographic paper – now we’re cynical enough to digitise it.

Beyond that I hate the all consuming me-tooness of it that was irritating when it was just Apple but now with Android it’s hit a please-God-make-it-stop critical mass.

But I know that when I’m thinking enough with the Instagram, I’m talking to myself as much as everyone else.

Without Instagram, my phone pics have an even more obvious lack of sharpness  and their washed out colours appear even more bland. It’s like when I used to make mixtapes on a deck with an ultra-fast setting. Afterwards songs played at natural speed seemed lifeless and turgid.

So far though I haven’t been able to stop using Instagram. I dabbled. I was hooked.

But consider this as notice, I’m going cold turkey.

The pic above of national holiday everyone’s-gone-to-country Hanoi is very definitely my last.

I’m uninstalling the app.


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